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Should they have a litter first?

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I love LookHuman Tees!!! Now that your puppies or kittens have been born, it is easiest to deal with them separately, so I will go through a few common problems that the mother may have during the next few weeks first. During the next few weeks, she will often be very possessive of her young and it is best to allow as few people as possible to see them and then only those that she is familiar with. The young should be handled as little as possible, especially in the first ten days or so. The next few weeks will be very draining for the mother who has to feed a litter of hungry young and keep herself in a reasonable condition as well, so any health problems must be treated seriously, as all those mouths are totally reliant on her well-being.

Retained afterbirth. If all of the afterbirth is not expelled during the birth, an infection is likely to be set up in the womb within a few days. Often this will not affect the mother but if she is off her food or dull, or has a smelly vaginal discharge, then call the Vet. Bleeding from the vagina. This should never be more than an occasional drip. If it is more than this, call the Vet. This is seen as a very sore-looking, red, tight-skinned swelling in one or more of the mammary glands. The pain or infection may cause the mother to be off her food and unwell, in which case the puppies or kittens will usually be unsettled.

There may be an infection, but some bitches can show the same signs merely due to too much milk! If you're not sure, call the Vet. Eclampsia milk fever. This is by far the most serious and urgent of problems after birth. This deficiency will cause problems with the muscles, brain and heart and can be fatal if untreated.

Unfortunately, the signs are not clear-cut. Most commonly one sees a change in behaviour - very restless, often aggressive, unwilling to eat and whining a lot. This then develops to a state of collapse and twitching of the muscles. It is usually seen at any stage between birth and weeks afterwards and is more common in small, excitable breeds of dog, but can be seen in large dogs or cats, especially those with large litters. For prevention see section on feeding during pregnancy and post-natally.

Plenty of water is needed. As far as food goes the mother needs to eat times her normal quantity by the middle of the third week of lactation! One big problem is getting her to eat that much. High-energy diets specially designed for lactating bitches are by far the best diet, however it is possible to use their normal diet in greater quantities. In cats, the mother will usually take a certain amount from her own body stores and a loss of body weight is usually seen. This is not a problem as she will make this up after the kittens are weaned, but it can cause difficulties if she becomes pregnant again too quickly after the kittens are weaned.

It may also be advised to give sterilised bone flour during lactation in large dogs if you are not feeding a diet especially made for lactating large breed dogs. You must be especially careful if feeding a home-made diet as many of these are deficient in important vitamins and minerals especially tripe, which contains almost no calcium at all and it is wise to get advice from us about these diets.

The high level of feeding will be necessary for weeks after birth, at which time weaning usually starts, and the amount of food can gradually be reduced to normal. This should be done at the same time as the pups and we would again recommend using a wormer that will kill the young worms as well as the adults. As situations differ we would suggest that you contact us in order to discuss which wormer and what worming regime would suit your particular circumstances best.

There is no need to worm for tapeworm unless there is any sign of such infection.


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The new born are very vulnerable and depend on the mother for food, water, heat, waste disposal and a good stock of antibodies against disease. They cannot shiver to increase their body heat until they are a week old.

If you feel that the young are a bit cold it is usually safest to put an electrical convection heater in the room with the young. While asleep, they usually twitch a little. The eyes do not open for 10 - 15 days and ears are closed until they are 2 weeks old so their ability to find a nipple to feed on is quite remarkable.

While very young, they are particularly prone to dehydration and missing only a couple of meals can be very serious. This is very rich colostrum, similar to that provided by humans to their young and it is vital for the young to get this straightaway to help them to fight off any mild infections while their own systems are still very underdeveloped.

After hours, the young are no longer able to digest the antibodies which they obtain in the milk and instead of reaching their blood stream, these antibodies carry right through and are passed in the stools. The young should have a sleek coat and elastic skin, with a rounded stomach.

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They should feel warm to the touch. They will sleep most of the time and feed about every 2 hours when first born. Crying is usually heard either when they are disturbed or just prior to feeding and should only last a few minutes. Placing a finger in the mouth should elicit a sucking reflex from the first day.

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Any change from the above should alert you to a problem - keep a particular eye on any of the litter which are especially small the runt. Either of the first two problems will not allow the pup or kitten to live a normal life and it is kindest to them to put them to sleep as soon as possible.

The young should be wormed with a wormer that kills migrating larval stages of round worms as well as the adults. Please contact us for advice as to what is the best drug and dosage regime to suit your circumstances.

The mother should be wormed at the same time. It should be remembered that the eggs are not infectious for two to three weeks after they have been passed, so it is quite safe to clear up the stools, which should be done as soon as possible. The risk to humans is mainly to young children whose personal hygiene may not be all that would be desired. The disease in humans can be very serious in a tiny number of cases, causing blindness and epilepsy.

There is no need to worm the young for tapeworm, as they will not catch these if they ever do until later.

The docking of tails is now banned other than in exceptional circumstances, and vets who do it are liable to be disciplined by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons; please do not ask us to do it. Front dew claws do not cause many problems and so opinions differ as to whether these should be removed, however it is our opinion that it is a good idea in working dogs.

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If you would like the dew claws removed please make an appointment straight away as it has to be done within days of birth. This should start at about 3 weeks old. The consistency of this is gradually made thicker. A bowl of fresh milk substitute or water should also be available at all times. During this time the mother may vomit up her food for the young to eat - this is not a sign of illness, but the way they used to do it before they had such things as Chum or Whiskas!

Kittens and puppies are very susceptible to fleas, which can cause severe anaemia and death. This is a spray you put on their coats that kills fleas and ticks but can't harm the pup or kitten. It works well and lasts for a month from one application. When these are no longer useful, the young are very susceptible to infection.

Vaccinations are given to give the young immunity to certain common fatal diseases.